Hey, can't wait for the teardown once it's done

It's been a few months, I would love to see a new update on how everything is holding up.

I'd recommend a safety loop for the drive shaft in case you have a similar problem again. It'll help keep the shaft from hitting the ground if either the u joints or the shaft itself break.

I liked that impact drill camera shot, where it shakes everything as it's hammering. Something about it gives you the visual feeling of what it's like to feel the vibrations, rather than just hearing them.

Definitely gotta have you test it with Matt's off road recovery group. They put their rigs through some rigorous trails, would love to see how the hummer handles it!

You should have a protective cover underneath the Hummer for the coolant lines so when your off-roading they don't get snagged and ripped out

I think it would be cool and a good idea to put some skid plates underneath the Hummer for events like the cement pile where you're scraping the ground. A skid plate would protect your drive shaft and coolant lines. It's been so cool to see this thing come together!

So nice and convenient you could just pop into front wheel drive to get home 😅

Love this video series! Here’s a piece of info on the HMMWV and the way they were designed to work originally. It’s called throttle/brake modulation. When you feel wheel slip, let up on the throttle. Then you put your left foot on the brake, right foot on the accelerator. Then you accelerate more or less and brake more or less depending on what you’re feeling the vehicle do. It’s been ages since I learned about this, but you should look it up and give it a try!

Only Jerry: Counted hundreds of LED's on the Nothing Phone. Also Jerry: Doesn't count teeth on a gear machanism.

Diff company: "Let's put a nice hat in the box for Jerry. I bet he'd love it!" Jerry opening the box: "Get that friggin hat outta my shot!!"

Definitely route all the harnesses as far away from the driveline as possible, I’ve seen driveshafts “grab” and quickly remove other components located nearby. As stated above a driveline loop is also very recommended. Great build, taking notes to build the hmmwv I have at my shop right now.

Speaking of safety, it was noted in a previous video that the electric assisted steering you have is going to fail because you have the assist on the input side of the steering box. With a hydraulic assisted steering box the electric assist needs to be on the lower or output side or you are going to rip the internals of the box apart and have ZERO steering when it happens. The input side is designed for the low force, ie your arms, it's the output side that's boosted. You've boosted the input and that wont hold.

Tip: To prevent tears and ripping while drilling, just set the drill to strengt 20. When it gets stopped, it doesn't break the part, the drill or hurt you! I tried it, and used it ever since!

I’ve always loved the videos, but it definitely fun to see you drive around because I live around the area so I’m seeing the mountains and roads that are so familiar! Love watching you build the car! I think being able to convert cars to electric will be the future of cars. Not everyone can afford a now one so if someone can come up with a cheeper kit to switch over gas cars then we save some resources! Thanks for the videos!

Jerry, the way the video started it looked like you were doing one of those car destruction videos, also I’m proud of you for going up to the task, I hope this will be drivable because the way you went about it is interesting to me

Aluminium skid plate protect your underside, but also it improves drag coefficiency by quite a lot! So it becomes more aerodynamic without ruining the look of the hummer, definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

I really love watching your positive attitude about things in life. Things don’t fix itself when you get mad and have a complete meltdown. Keep up the great work!

You forgot to put Teflon sealer in the yoke splines, this will cause a leak later. Big fan here been watching this build since day one. Keep it up.

Hey, sorry to bother but I've been really curious about how you figured out the power train you needed to pull this beast around. Im looking into building an older 1966 f-100 into an E-Truck but I can't figure out how people figure out what their motor needs to be able to do, what controllers will work with what motors and so forth. I'd love some feedback on how you figured out your system and built it up!

I really love watching your positive attitude about things in life. Things don’t fix itself when you get mad and have a complete meltdown. Keep up the great work!

Those Torsen differentials are super cool, they "multiply" the torque the spinning wheel sees sending it to the stationary one. On the last climbing test you probably would have been able to make it by gently applying the brakes, making the torque on the spinning wheel appear to be higher causing a multiple of that torque to go to the stationary one. The exact multiple here is dictated by the friction surfaces of a washer pack between the two gears that the output shafts insert into, it can be tuned to a certain degree but is a bit of a pain to do consistently.

I don't think I would have tried the cement with the cooling lines hanging there. I can't wait to see what this can really do. I have really enjoyed this series.

I love the fact it took you less than a second to take that sweet ride off road right after you fixed it!!!! All those hours building and seeing that you didn't just build it for fancy highway vehicle but for some off road fun is what it's all about!!!! Freaking awesome!!!

Super cool! Can you take it to a metal scrapyard when you are done to put it on a scale to see how much it actually weighs now? Would be interesting to compare the new electric weight to the old diesel weight. Using corner weight scales too would be interesting to see how weight distribution has changed, but I think those are a bit harder to find.

Count the turns of the nut when your undoing it and mark the nut to the pinion shaft so it goes back to same location. It’s the bearing preload that gets affected if you tighten it too much

I love the video production, so tidy. I would also love to be able to do a project like this but know how hard it is. It's nice to sit back and watch the compressed highlights without the hard work ;) The offroad expose at the end was a highlight!!!

Not sure if you know, but when rebuilding a driveshaft, make sure the u-joints are "clocked" properly. If they're not then the output will oscillate (speeding up/down) and that may not be desirable... Nice build, I can't wait until electric drivetrains are affordable enough to buy for a "commoner"!

Awesome video, really gives you an insight on the issues you could possibly come across when converting a gasoline based car into an electric based one. Attention to detail is important!

With the additional weight added from the batteries I feel like you should definitely add a roll cage that is spec'd to your ground weight. So in the event of a roll over you arent getting crushed by 6k pounds of battery and steel.

This series has been extremely good. You really have a fine balance between general appeal and technical depth

Quick idea to find out about the history of the humvee: you can get those small rocks and dust analyzed, it can tell you exactly where on the world it is from as rocks are extremely unique

Someone needs to be able to lock the differentials i think. Not going to get very far with open diffs. Great video as always.

Maybe you should make the interior more futuristic like add a bigger control screen like an iPad even an old one, then you should cover the electronics up in your backseat with foam then wrap the foam so you can have passengers Maybe also have it in a color you like. Big fan of this series Keep it up!

I also feel like I've heard this being a common issue for EV conversations. Some of the old parts are just aren't strong enough to handle the torque of the new motors.

Great work and awesome repair & diagnosis ! Can't wait to see more progress 😄

I could be mistaken but it looks though your rear differential is leaking a drive shaft.

Also, i really enjoy your content here, especially accessibility equipment like the Rig. Thank you, and please keep sharing your progress on the moon rover thing. Your videos are helping me with ideas for my own projects, so thank you!

Great video!! If you haven't already please read into uni joint alignment(radially) and in/out yoke angle, input and out side must be on a parallel plane with each other or it will cause vibrations and unwanted torqueing, particularly at higher speed and and ruin more diffs. you don't seem to be running much angle so the effects may not be noticeable but.... best practice ya know :). Thanks Again for the awesome videos!.

Authenticity is the best word I can think of to describe everything you do on this channel. 👌🏼

one can really appreciate the proportions and ground clearance of a hummer when you see it on those hill shots at the end, very cool

its mostly known as a collapsible spacer and it collapses and makes the 2 tapped roller bearings have pre load on the pinion gear. you can take the collapsible spacer off the pinion gear and stretch it by putting it on a solid bar in a vice and hitting the bulge with a hammer and it will stretch up to 2mm longer depending on how much you hit it.

I've loved this project from the start and followed it religiously. Each failure is a lesson and each lesson brings knowledge, you're a clever guy zack, can't wait to see the full offroad video

This has been my favorite build ever, even though I am not big yet on electric. I love the power, just the grid needs to go from coal to hydrogen powered plants to maintain the output needed.

Wow that is definitely an unexpected failure. Tracking all of those details is not easy.

It's just so cool to see this thing move so *silently* under its own power -- Hummers are usually so *loud* with that big Diesel engine in there. What a cool vehicle!

I bet this thing would make a dope rock crawler. The low end torque is amazing.

I love how the teardown of the differential plays so much like his tech teardowns. I would totally love a proper maintenance video on this rig as you continue to own and drive it!

Well, she’s not really built for off-roading, but how cool is it to see a fully electric hummer! You’re a mad lad Jerry, and that’s what I likes about ya!

I going to build an electric muscle car so this was good to see the kind of power these electric motors put out👍🏾 good stuff 👏🏾

Am I the only one that can hear the high pitch noise when the hummer is moving? Maybe I am just hyper sensitive but that would drive me totally bonkers if I had to drive that car any distance.

The Crush Sleeve (metal ring) is meant for keeping the bearings with the right amount of play, its wouldn't cause this. If the nut is to tight or loose it will just do premature wear on the pinion bearings

You should weld up an steel "cage" for the middle driveshaft so it it fails again you prevent it bouncing around to much and may damadge the batteries. Have it to be 1 cm clearance up and down (maximum suspension travel) and 2 cm to the sides or a little more to not be hit while the rear flexes in corners.. Easy job and may save your vehicle/batteries/life

There's an orientation to the yokes on a drive line that make a difference on how the universals wear. You need to line up the yokes from the transmission to the rear end. Check with a drive line specialty shop to make sure, it's been 45 years since I've last done this.

You should install a drive shaft loop for added safty and protection

The placement of the breaks is really cool. Definitely comes from its heritage of indestructibility.

8:28 feels good to see that this happens to other people as well ^^

I am so glad I binge-watched this series, Jerry. This was awesome, and so is Whisper... she's a beast !!! Well done, Brother !!!

It's a great thing and this has been my favorite series you've ever made. One thing I did wonder: is there any way to make that high pitched noise go away?

You made replacing that part look too easy! haha

All this and I’m impressed by how you cut the metal bands on the package. I’ve always went to get my tinsnips and never thought of using two adjustable wrenches.

I appreciate all the camera angles from deep within the car.

Really glad to see a torque wrench working about... Was worried you weren't torquing to spec. 👍😁

Such a cool series. I’ve been wanting to do something similar with a Willys Jeep! Just curious, can you hear the high-pitch hum in person or is that something the camera pics up?

Curious on the range with your 100kw system 🤔 especially since it has a 80mph limiter. Also curious on how the half shafts will hold up to the quoted max torque. If all goes well I would want to see you sell the custom parts you made for others to ditch the diesel/gas trend and go zero emissions. Either that or sell/open source your 3d designs (but I know this is a business and that's unlikely). Awesome work and I look forward to the future videos.

Can't help but think an under body shield may be a good idea, especially if you're going off road a decent amount. Glad to see it coming together so well.

If the same breakdown would've happened to a normal person other than Zack then his entire day would be upset but he took it so sportively... 👌👏

i am fascinated by your e-Hummer project ! Got to learn so many things from it in the past year! I do have a very a naive question :-) why did'nt you you think of repainting the vehicle after it was stripped down ?

Can i humbly suggest reducing the rear over hang. You guys have the cutting and welding skills, it’s functional and it will look so cool.

Easily one my favorite builds lately. Ps. Your tire pressure was way to high for any sort of crawling.

When anything related to the gears meshing you must calculate the diametral pitch which is Pd = number of gear teeth / diameter of the gear, and the two gears must have the same value.

One thing I've always heard is, gears designed for ICE engines don't play nice with electric motors. They tend to snap in two from the instant torque.

Dont forget to install tons of extra screens and cameras to match the new hummer ev! youve got to do something with all that dash!

Hey jerry, hope life is going well, wondering when will we see another hmvee video, also, I know that the spec sheet from uqm states 295 peak hp (450v x 500amps)/ 746. Never the less , it would be nice to see a dyno video in 4high and 4 low. Many blessings to you and your family

Hey, thanks for this EV Humvee series. I was going to convert an old 3500 to electric but after watching you struggle and persevere through this build, I'm just going to buy an F-150 lightning.

The rotating resistance in the carrier is how we measure pre-load of the carrier bearings. Bearings are not loose, or in “end-play” which you can measure with a dial indicator.

Next time just lower your tire pressure a lot, it will probably crawl up better the hill without traction issues. Anyways, great job, you're livin the dream.

That person at the beginning was really nice she didn’t ask for a picture or anything just showed her support and didn’t make it weird

I know it's not finished from seeing the wires hanging around, but please update your coolant lines to SAE rated coolant lines. Clear vinyl tubing is a safety hazard.

I was told that you can lock the brakes, and then ease off with a foot on the throttle, and it will lock all four tires at once. Not sure if that is the case or not, but I think it would be cool to see if that is the case

The error wasn't just a spline count difference. For the female-splined yoke to go onto the male-splined shaft at all with a tooth count mismatch, it must have also been larger in diameter than the shaft. An additional source of confusion is that some of these splines (likely including those stock in the HMMWV, which was designed and built by AM General but used some GM-style components) is that in some of them two of the male spline teeth are bridged together, so while the spline tooth spacing corresponds to 27 for the full circumference, there are only 26 teeth (one of which is much wider); that's to index the male and female to a specific position. This sort of error is easy to make, but it also easy to avoid by comparing full specifications, not just the spline count. When the diameter is not provided (which is common with these components), measuring the actual parts before assembly is a good check.

I noticed the torsen lockers weren't engaging, I think you need to apply a little bit of break pressure at the same time as you press accelerator pedal, the spinning side needs to get some resistance before the lockers engage... I think that's how torsen lockers work..

Yep, melding old and new parts together is always difficult and running around without the cooling lines connected is not good test parameters! Just saying. Will you be using a patina finish? Coating the existing paint with a clear coat to provide protection? Thank you for sharing all of these videos!

You've inspired me to do my own EV conversion. I'm planning on doing it to a Subaru BRZ. Planning out this project and researching all of this stuff reignited this love for JDMs I thought I lost when I enlisted and got stationed in Germany (the most anti car modification country I could ever end up in Europe). Thank you for this series man. Whenever I get the project running maybe I'll start my own series on buying JDMs from Coparts and rebuilding them into EV super cars 😂

You make everything look easy to fix with the right context not beiing that easy... Love your vids overall.... 👍

The fact that you filmed it when it happened is worth a Award!!!! Great Stuff!!!

That's awesome. Also, it's incredibly complex. Even with all the tutorials in the world, this doesn't feel like a DIY project. So many comments pointing to this or that being likely to fail next. Wonderful to watch the truck come together though.

I love how they( the differential vendor) sent you a hat, and it just gets tossed aside. Would love to see this thing. so many questions. Keep up the great work.

Lower your tire pressure in off-road, will help enormously!

It would probably be a good idea to add protection to the cooling tubes on the bottom.

9:45 there isn't a crush ring inside. there are two taper roller bearings which need a specific amount of pre load to function correctly

I don't know if anyone has said this before.... You have the absolute best "radio voice" ever! Great build, love everything about this build!

you probably shouldve changed both diffs just to be on the safe side just in case someone has put a custom set of gears in the original diffs, you do not want your front and rear diffs having different gear ratios as that will cause the front and rear wheels to spin at different speeds

I recommand adding a compressor for inflating your tires after off roading at a lower pressure.

Considering how much time and money you’ve spent on this project, you reacted incredibly well to such an event 😂

Wow this has been SO much fun to watch. You're awesome man, can't wait to see more.

Shit happens man, its amazing you're doing this stuff. The first motor I rebuilt I forgot to properly install a small cam alignment pin and it fell in the crankcase and broke a small bit ofthe crankcase off. Engine still runs great though as it was just an artifact of casting and not an important structural element. If anyone's curious it was a small 125cc dirtbike motor that I've abused the shit out of trail wrecking (1st dirtbike).

I've always been taught than when measuring the preload on the pinion you want to get the measurement while the pinion is moving, and not the initial value. The reason I was told is that it takes more torque to initially move the pinion than it does to maintain movement.

Would love to see a off road comparison test between the Electric Hummer and the Rivian.

Love your project, I can't wait for you to finish the Hummer and do some real opstical courses. I would like to see the end ability of your Hummer, total weight, top speed and acceleration to 60 80 100 and 120 MPH. And the distance ability on a full charge. You Rock and have been doing a great job there, well done.